Wednesday April24日 2024年

April 23, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Hokkaido’s best ramen…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Cool trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Landmark

I wasn’t really planning to surf in Okinawa but I felt that jumping into the ocean and riding a wave that Kazubo-san sent us would make me feel a little better.  We miss him so much…

Always good to see Hayato.  Many years of surfing, diving, traveling, and just having a good time.  We both realized how short life could be so we won’t stop playing and playing until it’s over.  

Good to see the Okinawa surf locals still surfing and surfing throughout all these years.  Happy faces and welcoming hearts.

The first time I came to Japan in 1990, the Landmark Tower was still being built.  I clearly remember a friend taking me there and looking up as the building disappeared into the clouds.  Standing 1000′, I was in awe.  And till this day, I still am in awe.

Snowboarding in Japan with my brother was super fun.  It felt like we were the only 2 people in the mountains.  I was having the time of my life until I fell and slid down the mountain backwards from the very top.  Going full speed on my back head first, I didn’t know how to recover.  I thought I was going to die.  After that, I went straight back to the rental shop and returned my gear.  I know my limits and when it comes to the mountains, I don’t trust myself.  

Good to see Tokura-san living the happy life.  Always smiling and always searching for the perfect wave.

Hanging out at Hayato’s house getting ready for a surf day.  More photos to come…

Almost Home

Heading back to Paradise! Back to life and back to reality.