|
|
| HOME > BLOG > KIRBY FUKUNAGA | ||
カービー福永世界を股にかけるプロサーファー カービー福永がお届けする毎日のカービーブログ。プォトグラファーとしても各業界から注目。
http://www.go-naminori.com/kirbyfukunaga/ [ OLD BLOG ]
|
||
スポンサー
|
2010,02,06, Saturday
16:34
 Circle of Friends!! |
|
2010,02,06, Saturday
14:25
good evening. we surfed velzyland this morning. the waves were 3-5' and coming up. a lot of waves washing through, and a lot of barrels if you were lucky. we had a 3 hour fun session!! by evening time, the waves got up to 8-10'... tomorrow? freaking going off!!! west swell and no wind? pipeline is the spot!!!
 this is akudo-san from tokyo. after we surfed 3 hours, we had to eat a big lunch!!! i hope you enjoyed surfing at one of the most heaviest spots on the north shore!!!  and thanks akudo-san for the goodies from japan!! itadakimasu and kampai!!!  on the way back to town, i was craving fresh eggs. i miss eating hot rice/natto/raw egg/miso soup for breakfast. so i stopped by to fulfill my needs...  i'll be staying on the north shore for the next 2 days so if you see my car, ask me for some fresh eggs. i will throw you a couple. hope you can catch it.... **not to change the subject. i usually don't let things bother me but something bothered me today. i've been surfing the north shore for 22 years and i know who's local and who's not. today, there were a few locals that live on the north shore and have surfed velzyland their whole life. i paddled out and said the usual hello's. into the session, i seen a couple of foreign surfers paddle around the locals on the outside and snake their waves. it happened over and over all morning. just to let you know, free surfing in hawaii isn't like surfing a contest so it doesn't matter who's got the inside position. locals are locals and when you disrespect them like that, it bothers me. then after 2 hours into the session, one of the locals paddled up to me and said "hey kirby, is that guy sitting on the outside with the half suit on your friend?" and he was pointing to a japanese surfer. i looked and told him "no, my friends know better." i don't know what happened after that but my local friend was pissed. and after i thought about it, i got a little pissed. why? because if your japanese and snake or take waves from locals, it makes all japanese surfers look bad. fortunately, my japanese friends have the upmost respect for all locals here in hawaii and all over the world. but all it takes is one to make everybody look bad. that's what pissed me off. i would try to stop, break up, or back up any one of my japanese friends or any japanese surfer from trouble. but if you disrespect locals like that, all i can do is watch. watch you get held underwater, watch you get punched, or watch you get your surfboard fins broken off. if i back you up because of your disrespect to the locals, i'm disrespecting the locals too. throughout my surfing life, i've seen it happen over and over in every part of the world. and let me tell you, it ain't pretty.... i'm not naming names, but i just hope all the younger surfers wake up and calm down. i know you don't know who is local and who is not local because you weren't around long enough. but there are locals at every single spot in hawaii and you shouldn't be paddling around and around them. when you surf at any local spot in the world, it's all about respect. if you respect locals, they will respect you. pretty simple.... weeeew... just had to let that out. wanted to let it out because if i don't warn people, something ugly will happen. like it almost happened today. and if this blog can prevent somebody from getting badly hurt, i've done a good deed.... |
|
2010,02,06, Saturday
10:57
 YES, PIPELINE NOW!!! GO GET BARRELED!!! |
|
2010,02,06, Saturday
10:04
 Do you know where this is? |
|
2010,02,06, Saturday
01:36
good morning. 6:30 am on this cold aloha friday. i'm freezing!!! still dark but i checked the buoys and winds. north shore will probably be 2-4' today with good conditions due to these light trade winds. kind of cloudy now but should clear up as the day goes by. i bet a lot of spots on the north shore will be good so i better get going. see you out there. have a nice day!!!
 i went to my sisters house and for special occasion last night. and when you have a special occasion, this is the man you want in the kitchen. long time family friend craig sako straight from the orchids at the halekulani. he cooked all of our food so we just sat down all night and ate, ate, and ate. this is the crab/avocado dip. after was the salsa, then the steamed fish, then the poke, then the salad, then the steak, then the potatoes, and everything else. it's 5 stars right in your kitchen....  terra-san from wakayama gave kimura-san this piece of buri from japan to bring to hawaii. all i have to say is "oh my gosh!!!" melt in the mouth!!! even the kids loved it!! thanks terra-san and kimura-san....  kelia turns 17 today. i still can't believe this beautiful girl is my niece. i've been getting so many fan mail for her through go-naminori and youtube that i can't even keep up. kelia's first trip to japan is looking promising this year. it will be a dream come true for her. and me...  buri sashimi? steamed kumu's? are we kings?  i ate 3 plates along with all other pupu's. i wish everybody in the world can experience craig's cooking. oh wait, you actually can. just go to orchids at the halekulani and you can try.....  craig and kelia in the kitchen. see those 3 kumu's? it was gone in a flash!!! thanks again craig for always cooking us the first class grinds. thanks to kimura-san and atsuko-san for being a part of the family. and happy 17th birthday kelia. go out and conquer the world!!! |
