I went looking for waves and started by checking Diamond Head.  When I got there, there were no cars, no people, and no surfers.  I saw huge lines of swells in the big ocean.  It was wild!  

Then I saw the first set break and got so excited.  OMG, I’m going to score big and crazy Diamond Head all to myself!  I ran down the mountain, paddled out my fastest, and caught as many waves as possible.  Another dream session.

Today was Sunday and this was the ocean.  It’s hard to believe because I use to travel around the world to search for waves like this.  There are 3 more swells in the forecast so I’m going to choose wisely where to surf.  I want big, perfect, and empty surf like this and I’ll look all over for it.  Thank goodness this one is only 10 minutes away from my house.  As for tomorrow, we shall see…

Best summer so far?  Big waves for the next 10 days!

Good morning 3am.
South swell is here!
Ala Moana 3-5′ and good. WQS ON!
Diamond Head 4-6′ and good.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  Early morning at Ala Moana.

New south swell is here!  Shoulder high this morning and overhead this afternoon.  Tomorrow much BIGGER!

Ogasawara-san’s level up!  Calm and confident.

Round 2:  Little league 3 year old kids baseball game.

Go boys!

The cutest thing ever!

Good job Sainty boy!

Round 3:  Oxtail stew.

Round 4:  The project continues.  The next 10 days of surf will be amazing!