Score and Scored

The waves at Bowls this morning were super good.  Bigger and better than yesterday.  The girls paddled out in the dark and caught so many waves before the sun even rose.  Their wave knowledge is getting really good.  They chose all the right waves today.

Warm weather, trade winds, and perfect waves.  It feels just like summer.

After we came in from an amazing session, we all agreed on one thing.  We scored!

Round 2 was a gamble.  We paddled out to a spot just for the experience.  It was onshore, small, and junky.  Then all of a sudden, the winds turned offshore, it got super clean, and the sets started pumping in.

This is the best right hander on the South Shore.  I got my first summer barrel of the year so it was a bonus.  When we got back in to the beach, all I heard was “omg, we scored!”  Yes we did!  Hope this South swell continues tomorrow…

Life: Make it Count

Boot Camp on will make your surfing dreams come true.  This girl couldn’t imagine riding a 6’1 and catching waves by herself.  Now she is.  Pretty cool to see the progression.

Not everywhere in the world will have a white sandy beach in front of a surf spot.  Sometimes there will be other ways you will have to enter and exit the ocean.  Ducking under a low pier might be the only way so you better know how.  

And sometimes you have to figure out how to get in safely.  Dodging boat propellers, sharp reef, dirty water, and sharks.  

Experiencing a surfers funeral makes you think about life.  How life is so precious, and how life can end in a second.  Life is something we shouldn’t take for granted.  Nobody knows when their last wave or last day will be.  So make it count…

March 18, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday afternoon once more:  Davey-Boy on a overhead set at Bowls.

Good morning 3:30am.
North shore 4-6′ and good.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!