As I’m writing this now, I can’t explain to you how excited I am.  I’ve been waiting for a couple years for this.  Watching the weather, waves, winds, and my schedule.  Everything has to fall into place or as we say “the stars have to align.”  

Preparation is everything.  So yes, I’ve been spending the past 2 days preparing.  I’m going to a place where there is nobody, and no stores so I can’t afford to forget anything.  

Cooler, fishing gear, dive gear, and cooking equipment.  

There is a very isolated place where I’m hoping to camp.  It’s the most beautiful place on earth.    

When we get hungry, we hunt.  Pretty simple.

Filled up the gas tanks, loaded the boat, and we shall see how far we go.  Finally!

A foamy day!

Good morning 2:45am.
North shore shoulder to head high and good.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and clean.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and clean.
Light winds so good morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It was back in the late 1980’s when I got a phone call from world renown photographer John Callahan.  He said “hey, my name is Callahan and surfer magazine wants me to get a shot of you for their magazine.”  I thought it was a prank call and almost hung up the phone.  Come to find out, he was serious.  My first photo shoot?  OMG, I was so nervous.  I told him “ok, let’s go get the shot out at Big Rights because I felt comfortable out there.”  I made sure my Ben Aipa custom shaped stinger model was cleaned up.  Gavin Hasegawa did the airbrush.  I made sure all my sponsors stickers were visible.  He was swimming in the inside with his fisheye lens so I had to get close to him.  I take off, fly down the line and right before I get to him, I do a simple turn.  Click and here it is.

Want to thank Tony Moniz and Craig Sako for sending me this post because I would have never been able to see it.  And want to thank my sponsors back then who supported me as an amateur surfer.

Town and Country Surfboards
Mango clothing
Freestyle Hawaii
Victory Wetsuits
Oakley sunglasses

I also want to thank my coach Ben Aipa for always believing in me.  And also want to thank John Callahan who we’ve become friends since that session and traveled the world together.