Yesterday once more.  Round 1:  We paddled out at 5:30am dodging box jellyfish.  

If you don’t fall, there’s a less chance of getting stung.  Ogasawara-san surfed a perfect session staying on her board.   Building muscle memory day by day.  

Round 2:  Yana-san and Rie-san surfing Rockpiles for the first time.   

OMG, it was so good!  Look at 63 year old Yana-san on this beautiful wave!  

Perfect take off and smiling the whole way.

Every time I surf with someone that has more stoke on surfing than me, it inspires me to enjoy surfing more.  And yes, there’s always more to enjoy.  

Rie-san very calm and cool.  I don’t think she fell the whole session.  

Nice take off and excellent bottom turn.  

The ocean is back to normal again.  Very clean and refreshing.  All the sea life must be very happy too!

Dropped in:  Welcome to Bowls…

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Box jellyfish today.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It’s been really shallow for the past 2 weeks.  I’ve hit the reef 4x and still have lots of sea urchin stuck deep in my foot for a week already.

Back to yesterday’s 4.5 hour morning session.  Ninomiya-san had the session of his life.

He caught 3 really good sets and did 4 turns on each wave.  He paddled back out with the biggest smile on his face each time.

On my first wave at 5:50am, I fell and lost my hat.  I was looking for it all morning.  Scanning the ocean but just couldn’t find it.  I finally gave up.  Then 4 hours later, I see a surfer at Rock Piles with a bright white hat.  Could it be?  I paddle over to him and as I got closer, I recognized my hat!  OMG, I ask him, “where did you find that hat?”  He said “I found it in the channel by Magic Island.”

He kindly gave it back to me and I was so happy because I really needed it.  So grateful!

Then it was back for Round 2.  Ogasawara-san taking off on her first ride.

Surfing under the rainbow.  Life is good for this girl…

Anyway, after 6.5 hours in the ocean, I was totally sunburnt.  Took a cold shower and went to sleep.